Phantom FG.1 Airfix 1/72 part 2


Planning of paint & markings

I really want to build Double O Seven but I do not like the kit specified marking. So I select this aircraft of HMS Arc Royal in the early 1970's, XT 871 / R 007. In this time period, The Beatles broke up, and John Lennon, Deep Purple, Eagles, and Carpenters were on the hit chart.

The aircraft number 007 is the same as the kit specified marking, but the serial is different. I make color profiles to check the marking position etc. The tail marking and the letter are traced from photos so as to be correct position and shape. Be careful that some color profiles in the existing books are not so correct. In my color profile, the letter of ROYAL NAVY and serial are not adjusted by the inclined surface so that they can be used as data for dry decals. Therefore they are a little high as a picture. The roundel is 36 inches, ROYAL NAVY and R on the fin is 12 inches high, the aircraft number 007 is 14 inches, and the fuselage serial is 4 inches. As for top and bottom profiles, the roundel is 36 inches and lower surface serial is 36 inches as well. This serial is painted in paralell with the flap hinge line.


I use the lacquer paint of Mr. Color. First, the very thin diluted Mr. Surfacer is airbrushed. Paradoxically, when thin diluted color paint is sprayed on the thin painted surfacer, the total thickness of paint layer becomes thinner than only paint is sprayed to enough coloring.

First, white with 10% of black is painted lower surface, then extra dark sea gray toned with small amount of blue and white is painted.


The red and white of the 892 Squadron badge is painted with a machine cut masking sheet. The data of the illustration is used. Roundels and lower wing serias are also masked and painted.

At first, the masking sheet of the mark part is applied for deciding its position, then the surroundings are pasted. Then remove the marking part.

White is sprayed and then masking for red portion is applied.

Mr.color GX3 Red with 5% of sail color is painted. Roundel blue is #322 phthalocyanine blue.

GX1 white (without black) is painted.

Red of roundels are masked and painted as well. The basic markings are finished.

Clear paint is oversprayed. Then the gaps on color bounderies are polished.

Metal portion is painted. Kitchen wrap is useful.

Masking for the stabilator.

Scotch tape is convenient. It is pasted and cut with an art knife.

The bare metal portion is painted with five tone colors.

The walk way is masked with machine cut film.

The serial number on the lower side is masked as well. Black film is for bent portion.

Boundary layer drainage holes are expressed by painting. Apply the masking sheet temporarily fixed with Scotch tape.

Masking sheet is removed.

Painting process is almost finished.

Dry decals

I dislike the step of decal varnish. I use custom made dry decals as much as possible on the upper side. ROYAL NAVY, serial (white), 007, R, �� are dry decals. Red and black caution stencils are also included.

Dry decals are applied.

These markings are all dry decals.

The red honeycombs, red arrows and black cautions are also dry decals.

The lower side cautions are kit decals.

The reinforcement panel is depicted with dry decal. After dry decals are applied, the surface is painted.

See the 3D printed slit and nozzle.

Main landing gear

The gray parts are Hasegawa. The blue parts are Airfix. Hasegawa's main gear leg and covers are chosen.

The wheel is from Airfix. Tread lines are engraved with a needle.

These covers are from Hasegawa.

The L shaped brass rod is inserted for reinforcement.

3D data again

The tail hook and surrounding small parts are 3D printed.

The tail hook is 3D printed and painted. See detail of the hook end.

This is outer weapon pylon.

The outer and inner pylons are printed upside down.

Inner pylon. The fins at the top of the tip are to ensure the correct shape for printing.

The gear leg of FG.1 is very thick. The kit parts are thin.

The front door is scrutchbuilt. The front wheel and rear door are from Hasegawa.

Tail hook 3D datafile download

Outer pylon 3D datafile download

Inner pylon 3D datafile download

FG.1 front gear 3D datafile download


Finally, semi-gloss clear painted model surface is polished with Mr. Laplos #6000. The weathering on the top side is the washing of Tamiya weathering masters with soapy water. As for lower side, in addition to that, the enamel black + brown is lightly diluted with a petroll, and applied with brush strokes to express oil stains. Wipe off the failed part with a petrol and start over.

Weathering of the lower side is finished. The center tank is from the kit.


One year and a half from the start of the drawings, one year after the start of the modeling, it is finally completed. This is the first experience of the 3D printer. It helped me to improve the quality of the work. I would recommend it for modelers who are not satisfied with details of existing kits. The world of modeling (or boundary limit lines) will expand. As for drawings, it took a lot of hard work, but I think my drawings are highly accurate. Thank you again to modelers who provided the material and information.


F-4C side view

F-4C top view

F-4C bottom view

F-4C cross section

F-4C front view

F-4C contour

FG.1 side view

FG.1 top view

FG.1 botomm view

FG.1 cross section

FG.1 contour

F-4E side view

F-4E top view

F-4E bottom view

F-4E cross section

F-4E contour

RF-4C side view

RF-4C top view

RF-4C bottom view

RF-4C cross section

RF-4C contour (1)

RF-4C contour (2)

F-4EJ Kai side view

F-4EJ Kai top view

F-4EJ Kai bottom view

Drawings top


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